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KMID : 0604520140400010001
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2014 Volume.40 No. 1 p.1 ~ p.10
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The Study on the Skin Penetration of Cosmetic Ingredient with in vivo Raman Spectroscopy and in vitro Franz Cell
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Jeon Se-Rim
Han Min-Hee
Chung Dae-Kyun
Hwang Jae-Sung
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Abstract
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At present, there are few research papers on skin penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients. What is worse isthat in vivo studies are hard to find. In this study, we measured skin epidermal penetration of cosmeceutical ingredientsusing in vivo Raman spectroscopy and compared with the results obtained from experiments using in vitro franz cell.Results showed that ascorbyl-2-glucoside, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and kojic acid were good for penetration ratio inmeasurement in vitro and retinol, vitamin C, and arbutin were good in measurement in vivo. Among them, retinol wasbest in skin penetration in vivo experiment using Raman spectroscopy and ascorbyl-2-glucoside was best in skin penetrationin vitro experiment using Franz cell system. It is estimated that the differences were originated from the experimentalprocedures of two different methods; in vivo Raman experiment can be sensitive to the effect of epidermisand dermis as characteristics of matter by estimating the stratum corneum and in vitro measurement is evaluation ofmaterial to penetrate skin of hairless mouse. However, most penetration barrier is the stratum corneum, thus it is importantto examine movement of material in the stratum corneum. We expect that these results provided useful in-formation for many cosmetic related research.
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KEYWORD
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Skin penetration, in vivo, raman, franz cell, functional cosmetic ingredients
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